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I bet you’re thinking: “Wait, she’s already posted this”,
but actually it’s good to know that there are several Durbar Squares in Nepal.
Not at all confusing, is it?
Essentially, Durbar Square is the generic term to refer to a
plaza located in front of a Palace complex. The 3 most notable ones in
Kathmandu are :
-
in Bhaktapur (pictures in this post over here),
-
in Kathmandu (pictured above),
-
in Patan (no pictures, as I didn’t get around to
going there).
All of them are UN World Heritage Sites.
Basantapur is home to number of temples, open courts and
street vendors selling all sorts of things. It’s a place truly bustling with
life.
We decided to walk there from our hotel (in the Thamel
area). The concierge gave us a map and told us it was an easy 15-minute walk.
Although easy, it took us more like 30 minutes to get there
since the streets have no names and are so narrow you often find yourself
plastered against walls as all manner of motorized vehicles squeeze by. Then
there are all the distractions: the stupas in the squares, the unexpected
shrines in random holes in the wall, the countless stores selling countless
goods… It truly is a marvelous maze of colors, scents and sights.
The next thing we knew, we were in the heart of Durbar
Square – no ticket and no questions asked.
The entrance fee for Durbar Square is about $7.50. However,
as we later found out after a cup of chai at a rooftop café, the limits of Durbar
Square are far from being clearly marked and you can walk out as easily as we
walked in and the authorities will not hesitate to charge you again. To avoid
this issue, bring your passport and a passport photo to the Site Office after
having paid your entrance fee, they will stick your photo to your ticket and
stamp it, letting you wander in and out of the square for the duration of your
visa. All for the same $7.50.
This is worth doing even if you are only staying in
Kathmandu for a day as it is worthwhile visiting the Square at different times
of the day: in the morning, the devotee flock there to make offerings; in the
day time, the views from the top of the temples or surrounding rooftop cafés is
breath-taking,; in the evening, the night market (from 5PM to 8 or 9PM) comes
to life and lights up the temples spectacularly. It’s also just more convenient
if you are walking around exploring so you don’t have to make unnecessary
detours around the square.
Basantapur Durbar Square is relatively compact but there are
a whole lot of temples in that relatively small space. It can be divided into
two areas: the outer complex – which includes sights such as Taleju Temple,
Jagannath Temple, Shiva-Parvati Temple, Big Bell and the Kumari Bahal; and the
inner complex – comprising the old palace courtyards, Basantapur Palace and
Hanuman Dhoka.
THE OUTER COMPLEX
1. Kumari Chowk – Home of the Living Goddess
This building houses the Raj Kumari – a girl considered to
be a Living Goddess. She is thought to be the reincarnation of Durga, the Hindu
mother goddess. She is chosen after a strict selection process at the age of 5
and lives in this building until puberty when another girl is chosen to replace
her. She rarely comes out on the inner balcony for public appearances other
than religious festivals but try your luck early in the morning or late in the
afternoon – or try paying her guards.
If you are lucky enough to see her, photos are prohibited!
2. Trilokya Mohan Narayan Temple
This is the tallest building on the compound. It is
dedicated to Vishnu and encloses incarnations of him and a figure of Garuda (a
vehicle of Vishnu). Another Garuda
statue can be found in Singha Sattal.
3. Kasthamandap – The Wood Pavillion
This is a 3-roofed building and one of the oldest in Durbar
Square. Legend states that it was entirely built with the wood of a single
tree. The name of the city – Kathmandu – derives from the name of this temple.
The building enshrines images of the God Ganesh. In the evenings, groups of
Hindus will gather to chant Holy texts.
Entry is permitted, but photos are not.
4. Ashok Bihayak Shrine
Dedicated to Lord Ganesha. There is a stone image below a
golden replica of an Ashok tree that used to shelter the shrine. Try to visit
at 6AM as people go there to make offerings and pray for luck for travel and
business and get a red spot on their head. On the other side of the street,
keep an eye out for a little rat statue. Rats are the vehicle of the elephant
God Ganesh.
5. Shiva- Parvati Temple/ Mahendreshwor Temple/ Shiva Temple
and Manju Deval Temple
All are dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Maju Deval enshrines a Shiva lingham
Shiva-Parvati temple holds shrines for both Shiva and his
partner Parvati. Take a look at Shiva’s left hand in the carving above main
door. (remember Pashupatinath?)
6. Kal Bhairav
Don’t miss the massive stone statue of Lord Shiva
7. Jagannath Temple
Look out for the exquisite wooden carvings on this temple.
8. Taleju Temple
This is one of the most beautiful temples in the square.
Access is restricted but enjoy viewing it from a distance.
THE INNER COMPLEX
The Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex
At the entrance of the complex, look for the statue of the
Monkey God Hanuman anointed with mustard oil and vermillion. He wards off evil
spirits and disease. As you walk around,
admire the elaborately carved wooden windows and panels.
Nasal Chowk
This inner courtyard houses the statue of the Dancing
Krishna on the East side of the courtyard.
Mul Chowk
Located behind the Dancing Krishna, this building is barred
to visitors but is a beautiful example of Nepali temples.
Basantapur Tower
Supposedly the palaces traditional pleasure quarters, this
tower has beautiful carvings and Mughal-style details.
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